Burgenland, the flat lake-district region in eastern Austria, grows more St. Laurent than anywhere else on earth, which tells you a lot about this grape: it loves warmth tempered by cool nights, and it does not like to be rushed. Aromatic, soft-tannic, and quietly complex, St. Laurent has spent decades overshadowed by Blaufränkisch in Austria and Pinot Noir everywhere else, which means right now it is one of the more interesting discoveries a red-wine drinker can make.
What St. Laurent Tastes Like
The first thing most people notice is the aroma: ripe dark cherry, violet, and a faint spice, sometimes a wisp of chocolate or dried herbs underneath. It smells a bit like Pinot Noir's more confident sibling.
On the palate the tannins are soft and fine-grained, closer to velvet than sandpaper, with medium body and a lively but not aggressive acidity. Flavors lean toward dark cherry, plum, and a subtle earthiness, occasionally with a hint of game or forest floor in older examples.
Compared to Pinot Noir, St. Laurent tends to be a touch darker in color, a shade richer in fruit, and a little less nervy. Compared to Blaufränkisch, it is rounder and less peppery. It occupies a comfortable middle ground that makes it very food-friendly.
- Primary aromas: dark cherry, violet, plum, subtle spice
- Secondary notes: chocolate, dried herbs, earthy/forest floor hints
- Tannins: fine-grained and soft
- Acidity: medium to medium-high
- Body: medium, occasionally medium-full
Where It Grows and Why Those Places Matter
St. Laurent is grown mainly in Austria and the Czech Republic. In Austria, Burgenland accounts for the largest share of plantings, followed by Thermenregion and the broader Niederösterreich (Lower Austria). In the Czech Republic it is the second-most planted red variety, spread across vineyards in both Moravia and Bohemia.
Burgenland's proximity to the shallow Neusiedlersee lake moderates temperatures and extends the growing season, giving St. Laurent time to develop its aromatics without losing freshness. Thermenregion, south of Vienna, has its own warm microclimate that produces slightly fuller, more structured versions.
The grape is confirmed by DNA analysis to be an offspring of Pinot Noir, with a second parent possibly being Savagnin. That parentage is not just trivia: it explains why St. Laurent shares Pinot's aromatic lift and silky texture while picking up a bit more body and color from elsewhere in the family tree.
Decoding St. Laurent Labels: What to Look For
Austrian labels are generally straightforward: the grape name (Sankt Laurent or St. Laurent) appears prominently, often alongside the region or a specific village. A Burgenland or Thermenregion designation is your most reliable quality anchor.
In our historical dataset the median sits around $27, placing St. Laurent firmly in the mid-priced tier, though well-regarded single-vineyard examples climb higher. Critics in that same dataset scored wines between 85 and 94, with most clustering around 89, suggesting a dependably solid range with real upside for the best producers.
Because St. Laurent is still a niche grape outside central Europe, you are unlikely to find dozens of options on a typical retail shelf. When you do spot one, it is usually from a focused Austrian producer who takes the variety seriously.
How to Serve St. Laurent and What to Pair It With
Serve St. Laurent slightly cool, around 14–16°C (57–61°F). Its aromatics open up beautifully at that temperature, and serving it too warm flattens the freshness that makes it interesting.
The grape's soft tannins and dark-fruit character make it a natural at the table. Roast duck is a classic match, the grape's cherry and earthy notes cutting through rich poultry fat without overpowering it. Mushroom-based dishes, venison, and pork with fruit-forward sauces all work well.
Hard, aged cheeses are an underrated pairing. A Gruyère or a mature Gouda alongside a glass of St. Laurent is a low-effort, high-reward combination worth trying.
- Serve at 14–16°C (57–61°F)
- Classic pairing: roast duck or game birds
- Also works well with: venison, mushroom dishes, pork with fruit sauces
- Cheese pairing: aged Gruyère or mature Gouda
- Avoid: very spicy food, which can amplify the grape's softer tannins awkwardly
A Common Misconception About St. Laurent
People often assume that because St. Laurent resembles Pinot Noir, it should be priced and treated the same way. The reality is that St. Laurent tends to be more consistent across vintages in its home regions, partly because it ripens reliably in cool climates that suit it well.
There is also a tendency to write it off as a novelty grape for wine geeks only. That undersells it. The soft texture and aromatic profile make St. Laurent approachable for anyone who already enjoys lighter-to-medium reds, and the food-pairing range is broad enough to justify keeping a bottle on regular rotation.
A tasting journal is useful here: St. Laurent from Burgenland and St. Laurent from Thermenregion can taste quite different, and tracking those differences over a few bottles is one of the more rewarding things you can do with a grape that most of your friends have not tried yet.